Our Guide to Essential Oils
Note: These are only some suggestions – there are many more oils for skin care preparations. Most of the oils have psychological and emotional uses as well.
Use small amounts of oils, unless otherwise stated – these are very powerful botanicals (see book Facelift at Your Fingertips for more details).
| ESSENTIAL OIL | SKIN TYPE | PRINCIPLE SKIN CARE USES | NOTES, COMBINES WELL WITH… |
|---|---|---|---|
| Artemisia (Artemisia arborescens) | Inflamed skin conditions | Principle Skin Care Uses | |
| Atlas Cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica) | Mature, damaged, dermatitis, acne, oily skin hair loss cellulite | Reduces spider veins, scars, stimulates lymphatic system. Use carefully and sparingly. | |
| Basil (Ocimum basilicum) | Oily skin, insect repellant | Mosquito and wasp bites, hair growth, eczema, acne, shingles and herpes. | Chamomile, lavender Carriers: all, esp. calendula (damaged) |
| Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis) | Pain, sprains, muscle contractions, arthritis, rheumatism | Powerful analgesic properties, antineuralgic, immuno-stimulant. | |
| Bitter Orange (Citrus aurantium) | Dull, dry, oily congested, acne, wrinkles | Strengthens and softens skin, stimulates nerve endings, aids in hydration, calms oil gland functions, increases hydro lipid layer, supports regeneration, aids cellulite and stretch marks. | Excellent for skin |
| Chamomile, Roman (Chamamelum nobile) | All skin types - great for blonde hair, hyper sensitive skin | Calming, anti-inflammatory - better for children; esp. good for Burns, dermatitis, eczema, antibacterial, calming, diaper rash, eases puffiness, strengthens and tightens tissue, best for dry, itchy and hypertensive skin. Emollient, cicatrizant, analgesic. | Lavender, rosewood, tea tree |
| Chamomile, German (Matricaria recutita) | Same, esp. eczema | More chamazulene (for above effects) so only a little is needed; most anti-inflammatory for skin, analgesic, anti-allergenic. | same |
| Cistus/Labdanum (Cistus ladanifer) "Leaves of rock rose" | Mature, wrinkles, inflamed, irritated, acne | Aids wound healing regenerating for slow healing. | *great in small amounts |
| Clary sage (Salvia sclarea) | Aging and oily | Acne, inflamed skin, wrinkles, anti-depressant, fluid and hormone regulating, hypo-tensive, migraines, cellular regenerator *Do not use if history of breast cancer | Cedarwood, cypress, geranium, lavender, mandarin, neroli, sandalwood. Carriers: apricot, hazelnut, hypericum wheatgerm |
| Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) | Oily, flushed, cellulite, water retention, varicose veins, excessive perspiration, overly hydrated skin, acne | Anti-bacterial and astringent, reduces spider veins, anti-spasmodic, reduces menopausal tension | Chamomile, clary sage, lavender, tea tree. Cellulite: grapefruit, fennel juniper berry. Carriers: borage, calendula, hazelnut, hypericum, jojoba, macadamia |
| Carrot seed (Daucas carota) | Best in scar blends, and also esp. dehydrated, by cold, dry winter, couperose, callouses, mature skin, eczema, boils | Improves tone and elasticity, deters wrinkles, dermatitis, rashes and skin discolouration, changes the moisture retention under the skin | Absolutely amazing - Use as part of regular treatment - up to 2%, but usually .05% |
| Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus) | Oily skin and hair | Perspiration, insect repellant, deodorizer | |
| Elemi (Canarium lozonicum) | Aged skin, inflammation, wrinkles | Cell rejuvenator, cooling on skin, heals and closes wounds | |
| Frankincense (Boswellia carterii) | Dry, aging neck, scars, wrinkles, stretch marks | Anti-inflammatory, astringent, immuno-stimulant promotes healing | Clary sage, geranium, lavender, myrrh in calendula for neck. Carriers: apricot, borage, calendula, lime blossom |
| Galbanum (Ferula galbaniflua) | Scars, wounds, inflammations | Heals scar tissue, tones mature skin, softens wrinkles, calms and heals ulcers, absesses, lesions esp. long standing cancers | All listed essential oils and carrier oils |
| Geranium, Rose (Pelargonium graveolens) | All, esp. oily, acne, burns, dry or weepy eczema, itchy, inflamed skin | Fungicidal, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiinfectious, antiseptic. The scent easily dominates, mosquito repellant, helps protect skin from sun, constricts blood vessels, regulates congestion, accumulated fluids, and poor elimination; gentle but powerful, cellular regenerative, balances oil secretion - absolutely one of the best! | |
| Grapefruit (Citus paradise) | Oily skin | Tones congested skin, lightens skin, aids hair growth | |
| Green Myrtle (Myrtus communis m.) | Hay fever and allergic congestion | Anti-infectious, anti-allergenic, anti-spasmodic, decongestant, sinusitis, bronchitis | Chamomile, cypress, mandarin, neroli, sandalwood. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, jojoba, macadamia, olive |
| Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum) Immortelle | Burns, wounds, acne, sars, couperose skin, frost burn, mature skin | Helps protect skin ultra-violet rays; the “super arnica” - treats damaged and congested skin. Antiinflammatory, antiphlogistic, anti-coagulant, prevents bruises, cicatrizant and phlebotonic | Clary sage, geranium, lavender, palma rosa. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, hypericum |
| Jasmine (Jasminum officinale) | Oily, mixed and sensitive skin, dry, greasy, stretch marks, dermatitis, intense itching (pruritis) | Soothing, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antiinflammatory | Geranium, palma rosa, Roman chamomile, rosewood. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, hypericum, macadamia, olive, almond |
| Juniper Berry (Juniperus communis) | All skin types - psoriasis, stretch marks, weeping and infected eczema, cellulite | Anti-inflammatory, alleviates anxiety, good for stiff joints, expels uric acid, powerful detoxifying agent, steam with juniper for congested oily skin with blackheads *use sparingly | Cellulite - grapefruit |
| Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) * | All skin types, acne, dermatitis, dry and wet eczema, insect bites & stings, rashes, rosacea, sunburn, wounds, burns | Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiseptic, antiinfectious, regenerative, prevents scarring, regulates puffiness which causes puffy skin, calming and regulating to the nervous system, cellular regenerator, balances sebum, cicatrizant, analgesic | Other citrus oils, geranium, neroli. Stretch marks:1 drop mandarin, neroli, lavender with 10 ml almond - rub 2x day after 4th month. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, olive |
| Lemon (Citus limonum) | Cellulite, acne, boils, corns, couperose and dry skin, thin hair and nails | Balances sebum, strengthens epidermis function, tightens blood vessels, stimulates connective tissue, lightens skin pigments, shines hair and increases growth | |
| Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citrates) | Oily, infections, cellulite | Counters acne, athletes foot, enlarged pores - tissue toner, lymphatic detox, aids in weak connective tissue and tightens elastin weakness | For shingles: combine with jojoba and spray on skin. |
| Mandarin (Citrus reticulata var. mandarin) | Oily, congested, combination, acne, scars, pimples, stretch marks | Toning, antiseptic, fungicidal, anti-spasmodic, improves circulation of fluids, calming | Cypress, frankincense, geranium, rosewood, tea tree. Apricot, calendula, hypericum, jojoba, almond. |
| Marjoram (Origanum marjorana) | Muscle and arthritic pain, stiffness, spasms, neuromuscular contractions | One of the most effective agents for relaxing muscle tension; analgesic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, neurotonic, sedative | All essential oils, esp. chamomile, geranium, lavender and rose otto Carriers: all esp. apricot, avocado and hazelnut |
| Melissa (Lemon Balm) (Melissa officinalis) | Herpes Simplex | Reduces healing time, and lengthens time before another occurrence, insect bites (esp. bees and wasps) | All listed essential and carrier oils |
| Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha) | Aging, chapped, cracked, cutaneous ulceration, fungal infections, weeping eczema, wrinkles | Antiseptic, fungicidal, anti-inflammatory, healing oil, gum health | |
| Neroli (Citrus aurantium var. amara) | All types, esp. dry, aging skin, and spider or varicose veins and broken blood vessels. | Antibacterial, fungicidal and healing and has a dual effect on the CNS: it is calming and an antidepressant, as well as a gentle tonic that combats fatigue and poor concentration, improves elasticity. | Cedarwood, cypress, geranium, rosewood, sandalwood. Carriers: apricot kernel, avocado, hazelnut, lime blossom, almond |
| Niaouli (Melaleuca quinquenervia var. cineol) | All types, esp. Infected skin problems, acne, insect bites, both eczemas | Strongly disinfectant, anti-viral, anti-bacterial and fungicidal, stops itching and allergic reactions, neat on athlete’s foot, powerful anti-inflammatory, protects from deep radiation burns if used pre & post radiation (10% in rosehip oil). x-rays too. | Cedarwood, clary sage, cypress, geranium, lavender, neroli, palma rosa, rose otto, sandalwood. Carriers: calendula, hazelnut, hypericum, jojoba, macadamia nut |
| Oregano (Origanum vulgare) | Infection, pain, bleeding | Extremely anti-inflammatory and antiseptic. Caution with use Broad spectrum antimicrobial, antiseptic, with fungicidal action comparable to tea tree and niouli; very gentle on the skin and hydrating (eases upper respiratory tract infections), cellular regenerator, regulates sebum | |
| Palma Rosa (Cymbopogon martini) | All types: a must! Esp. for acne, dermatitis, both eczema’s, dry skin, scars, wrinkles | Anti-microbial, insect repellant, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, astringent, cracks, scars, wrinkles, wounds, chapped skin. | |
| Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin) | All skin types. esp. acne, athlete’s foot, dandruff, impetigo, inflammatory and allergic skin, seborrheic dermatitis, spider, varicose or broken veins, weeping eczema | Add sparingly - very distinctive… | |
| Peppermint (Mentha piperiata var. vulgaris) | Shingles: esp. unresolved chicken pox, acne, dermatitis, | Detoxification, constricts capillaries, relives itching, inflammation, softens and degreases skin, removes blackheads, aids retaining water in tissue, cools skin | Dry: clary sage, geranium, lavender, palma rosa, cypress. Sensitive:- chamomile, lavender, patchouli, sandalwood. Carriers: apricot kernel, avocado, borage, calendula, hazelnut, hypericum, lime blossom |
| Pine (Pinus sylvesttris) | Boils, cuts, sores, excessive perspiration | Effects the corneum layer; esp. good for grayish smoker’s skin | All essential oils and carriers |
| Rosemary - verbenone type (Rosemarinus, officinalis verbenon) | Mature, chronically dry aged skin, acne and oily skin, couperose or broken veins | Rejuvenates skin | *One of most important in skin care. Geranium, jasmine, lavender, myrrh, niaouli, palma rosa, patchouli, rose otto, rosewood |
| Rose Otto (Rosa damascene) Do not use absolute, as solvents are used to extract the essence | All, esp. Dry, aging and sensitive skin, redness, rosacea, wrinkles, couperose, eczema, inflammations, radiation burns | Astringent, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, helps clear small broken capillaries, regulates hormones, stimulates nervous system, increases sexual desires. One of the best for skin! | Carriers: apricot kernel, avocado, |
| Rosewood (Aniba roseodora var. amazonica) | All skin - acne, eczema, dermatitis, scars, wrinkles, combination, sensitive | Gentle, non-toxic, non-irritant, skin tonic, cell stimulant, tissue regenerator | calendula, almond |
| Sandalwood (Santalum album) | All skin types, esp. dry, acne, damaged skin, chapped or cracked skin, inflamed | Anti-septic, moisturizing properties, has ability to penetrate the sub cutaneous layer, and can carry other oils there; increases capillary circulation, connective tissue and dermis are strengthened, increases water retention of collagen | Ylang ylang |
| Tagetes (Tagetes minuta) | Do not use in sensitive skin | Corns, bunions, calluses, fungal infections, insect bites | Chamomile, cypress, lavender, rosewood, sandalwood. Carriers: calendula, hypericum, jojoba, macadamia nut |
| Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) | All skin types, absesses, boils, burns, cold sores, dandruff, fungal infections, infected skin, impetigo, insect bites, warts | Wide spectrum antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, bactericidal, insect repellant, anti-fungal. Helps protect from radiation burns - after use rose and lavender. | |
| Thyme (Thymus geraniol/linalool) Note: red thyme is very abrasive so use with caution, or just use linalool | Psoriasis, acne, dry, weeping eczema | Strong antiseptic, agent, but still gentle and healing to skin (this specific type) One of the broadest antimicrobial actions available | |
| Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanoides) | Mature, dry skin, wounds | Cellular regenerator, works on atrophic or slack skin | |
| Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) | Acne, burns, sunburn, inflammation, eczema, warts, varisose veins, scars | Balances oily skin and scalp, promotes hair growth, encourages perspiration, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, anti-allergentic, cicatrizant | |
| Ylang Ylang (Cananga odorata) | Dry, oily combination, irritated, insect bites | Balances sebum |
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*Note: Lavandin is crossed with Spike Lavender – which ends up having similar (but less pronounced) effects, and is more stimulating. Spike Lavender also helps abscesses come to a head.
- Anticoagulant: prevents clot formations
- Antineuralgic: relieves and reduces nerve pain
- Antiphlogistic: reduces inflammation or fever
- Antiseptic: discourages growth of microorganisms
- Cicatrizant: an agent that aids in wound healing and formation of scar tissue
- Granulation: The part of the healing process in which rough, pink tissue containing new connective tissue and capillaries forms around the edges of the wound.
- Keratinization: the process by which the epidermis forms its outer layer
- Neurotonic: strengthens and supports the nervous system
- Phlebotonic: treats red veins (couperose) – strengthens veins
References:
Facelift at Your Fingertips
Northern Star College of Mystical Studies – class notes 2005-08
HEAL reference manual from Essential Botanicals
kolya
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